I first became curious about Shanxi’s ancient architecture thanks to the unexpected hit video game Black Myth: Wukong last year. During my July vacation, despite the scorching heat, I decided to make the trip. The moment I stepped off the plane from humid, sweltering Guangdong into Shanxi’s cool breeze, I finally understood why so many people come here to escape the summer heat.
Before this trip, my knowledge of Chinese architecture was minimal—just vague memories from a few undergraduate architectural history classes. So I binge-watched documentaries to prepare. I especially recommend Professor Wang Nan’s lectures, A Thousand Years, One Cave: Yungang Grottoes and A Thousand Years, One Pagoda: Yingxian Wooden Pagoda. They’re vivid, engaging, and Professor Wang herself is delightfully charming.
华严寺大雄宝殿(Photo credit to Bonnie Luo)
善化寺吉祥天女(Photo credit to Bonnie Luo)
My route took me from Taiyuan to Xinzhou, then on to Wutai Mountain, Dai County, and finally Datong—barely scratching the surface of Shanxi’s hundreds of temples. Even the humblest towns are full of surprises: towering wooden pagodas or pavilions suddenly appearing around a corner, intricate plaques and rooflines revealing layers of meaning. Shanxi’s wooden architecture, especially from the Tang dynasty, stands apart for its simplicity and weight, in contrast to the ornate splendor of the later Ming and Qing periods. Traveling with a modern design lens, I kept notes along the way:
1. Wooden Architecture: A Living Philosophy
Why does Chinese architecture favor wood, while Greek architecture relies on stone? This is the first question I remember from architectural history classes—the key to understanding East–West contrasts.
Beyond resource availability, Chinese architectural philosophy seeks harmony with nature, aiming for “vital energy and living spirit” in spatial layout. Wood feels alive, breathing with the seasons and the passage of time. Chinese builders viewed architecture as dynamic, renewed through repair and reconstruction, rather than striving for eternal permanence.
Greek architecture, by contrast, revered ideal proportions and geometric perfection—think of the “golden ratio” in sculpture—using stone to embody rational order and timeless beauty. This philosophical difference shaped what survives today: China’s wooden temples often perished, leaving underground tombs and burial goods (like the Terracotta Army, ritual bronzes, and jade) as the main surviving relics, emphasizing continuity of family power and status in the afterlife. Greece’s legacy, meanwhile, lies above ground—temples, sculptures, theaters, and civic spaces celebrating the relationship between gods, heroes, and people rather than individual afterlives. Their tombs, by comparison, were strikingly modest.
北齐壁画博物馆
山西省博物院舞乐俑
2. Roofs that Hold Aspirations
Temples once carried the collective imagination of the people, and intriguingly, their decorations varied by Buddhist sect. Take the Pure Land Temple in Yingxian, built for the Pure Land school, which teaches that salvation comes through chanting and visualizing the Western Paradise. The temple’s designers translated their vision of that paradise into the coffered ceiling (藻井) of the main hall: lavish, layered bracket sets evoking heavenly palaces.
Other temples, shaped by different doctrines, favored simpler designs, highlighting arhats or bodhisattvas instead. I used to find temples indistinguishable; now I see a logic. In modern terms, a temple’s layout is essentially an “experience design” for worshippers: guiding them through rituals like incense offering, alms, vegetarian meals, and evening chants. Both worshippers and deities are “users” of the space—the architecture mediates their encounter.
应县净土寺藻井(Photo credit to Bonnie Luo)
3. Centering the Divine
In my work, we constantly champion “human-centered design.” Stepping into Jinci Temple and ancient Buddhist sites, I felt disoriented: here, everything was “god-centered.”
Why is the opera stage placed at such an odd angle? Because it was meant to perform for the gods, not the audience. Many temple gates were intentionally framed so that deities could gaze at human comings and goings—a “picture frame” through which the sacred views the mundane. For visitors, these thresholds mark the transition from worldly life to the Buddha’s realm, creating a layered, serene approach to the sacred.
Though built for gods, these spaces inevitably reflect human imagination—our hopes for divine life projected outward. The Pure Land Temple’s celestial palaces remind me: perhaps gods don’t actually live in palaces or eat peaches of immortality, but we build them anyway (and smile at our own audacity).
善化寺大殿门框(Photo credit to Bonnie Luo)
4. A Cosmopolitan Era
One of the most surprising discoveries of this trip was learning how cosmopolitan Shanxi became during the Northern Wei dynasty. From the 5th century onward, Chinese, Indian (Buddhist), and Persian (Silk Road) influences mingled here. Murals, motifs, and sculptures in grottoes and temples reveal a cultural crossroads.
Merchants from Central and Western Asia brought glassware, silver, and new artistic styles to Pingcheng (modern Datong), shaping local fashion and music among the Xianbei and Han peoples. The vibrancy echoes the global flows of the early 20th century—migration, trade, and cultural exchange across communities and nations. Pingcheng truly embodied the ideal of “harmony in diversity, a world united.”
北齐壁画博物馆
Appendix
5. How did Buddhism become “Chinese”?
At the Shanxi Museum, I learned that Buddhism first entered China during the Wei–Jin and Northern–Southern dynasties, when Datong (then Pingcheng) was the capital. In an era of war and upheaval, people embraced Buddhist teachings, which promised that enduring present suffering could lead to bliss in the next life. As it localized, Buddhist art transformed: in the Yungang Grottoes, for instance, Buddha statues began wearing Han-style robes instead of Indian monastic garb, making them more relatable to local devotees. Ancient or modern, the logic of building trust is the same—even gods must feel “down to earth.”
忻州佛光寺东大殿内壁画—春日莫兰迪色的罗汉朋友们(Photo credit to Bonnie Luo)
6. The Arhats in Morandi Colors
Among all the temples, my favorite was Foguang Temple near Wutai Mountain. Its architecture is humble, its courtyard quiet and lush with green. Inside the East Hall, vivid arhat statues come to life with expressive faces and draped robes. It’s astonishing to see that artisans centuries ago already understood the subtle “Morandi” hues of spring and summer.
忻州佛光寺内院(Photo credit to Bonnie Luo)